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Lino Lacedelli
Lino Lacedelli (4 December 1925 – 20 November 2009) was an Italian mountaineer. Together with Achille Compagnoni, on 31 July 1954 he was the first man to reach the summit of K2. He is also noted for leaving his teammates Amir Mehdi and Walter Bonatti in a life-threatening situation in order to ensure that he reached the summit first.
==Early life==
Lacedelli was born in Cortina d'Ampezzo. His climbing career began as a young teenager when he followed a mountain guide up a local summit. He soon came under the tutelage of Luigi 'Bibi' Ghedina, one of the best Dolomite rock climbers of the age. In 1946 he was accepted into the prestigious ''Cortina Squirrels'' club. Lacedelli was known for fast ascents of difficult routes, including: the ''Constantini-Apollonio South Face Direct'' (500 m V+ A2) on the Pilastro di Rozes (repeat with Ghedina); the first ascent of the ''Southwest Face'' of Cima Scotoni (Fanis Group) with Guido Lorenzi; first one-day ascent of the ''Solda Route'' on the SW Face of the Marmolada di Penia (with Lorenzi); and the fourth ascent of the ''Gabriel-Livanos Diedre'' on the Cima su Alto with Beniamino Franceschi.
In 1951, he achieved international recognition by completing, in the Mont Blanc massif, the second ascent of the ''Bonatti-Ghigo'' on the east face of the Grand Capucin with Bibi Ghendina in 18-hours, just weeks after the four-day first ascent. He became an obvious choice for the 1954 Italian K2 expedition led by Ardito Desio.〔
抄文引用元・出典: フリー百科事典『 ウィキペディア（Wikipedia）』
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